Frequently asked questions.

Three steps, no mystery: tell us the vehicle and the job (photos help), get an itemised written quote - usually the same business day for straightforward work - then pick a slot that suits. Lead times move with the season, so if you're working to a deadline like a new-car delivery or a show date, say so up front and we'll plan around it. Nothing goes on the schedule until you've seen the number in writing.

Most jobs are leave-with-us - controlled bays, proper cure conditions and unhurried installation are what the finish and the warranty depend on. How long depends entirely on the job: tint and small graphics are quick, full wraps and full-body film are multi-day projects. Your quote comes with a realistic timeline for your actual job, and we'll tell you honestly if a deadline you're carrying isn't achievable without cutting corners we won't cut.

For new-car protection, yes - dealership pick-up and drop-off is a standing service: tell the dealer we're collecting, and the car comes straight to our bays before its first drive, which is ideal for FIFO and regional buyers. For other jobs, ask about logistics when you enquire and we'll tell you what's possible for your situation. Either way, the car is stored indoors with us for the duration of the work.

A walk-around, together, under proper lighting - you see exactly what was done, edge by edge, before you drive away. You'll leave with written care instructions for your specific job (film, wrap, coating and tint each have their own routine) and the warranty paperwork explained in plain terms. If anything isn't right, that's precisely when we want to know - the inspection is for finding it, not for hurrying past it.

Two layers, both in writing: the product warranty from the film or coating manufacturer (terms vary by product line - your quote names the product so you can verify), and our own workmanship guarantee on the installation itself. What voids warranties is worth knowing too: brush washes, pressure lances on film edges and DIY chemical experiments are the usual suspects, and the care instructions exist to keep you clear of all of them.

The workshop is at 18 Rowallan Street, Osborne Park - call when you arrive and we'll guide you in. If you're dropping a vehicle for multi-day work, allow a few minutes for the intake walk-around: we photograph and note the vehicle's condition with you so both sides start from the same record. Opening hours are on every page's footer; if you need an out-of-hours drop, ask when booking.

PPF is a clear or matte polyurethane film professionally installed over painted surfaces - a sacrificial layer engineered to absorb minor stone impacts, road debris, light scratches and everyday contamination before any of it reaches your original paint. Unlike a wax or coating, it's a physical barrier with real thickness, and quality films self-heal: fine swirls in the film's top layer disappear with heat. The paint underneath stays factory, which is the entire point.

The everyday attrition that actually ages a car: minor stone chips and road debris on freeways, light scratches and wash marks (which stay in the film, not the paint), bug splatter and bird droppings that etch unprotected clear coat, and general surface scuffs on covered panels. It's the accumulation defence - none of these incidents justify a respray on their own, but five years of them is exactly why used cars look used. Film takes that recording instead of your paint.

No - and it's worth being straight about the limits. PPF is a sacrificial layer against abrasion and minor impact; it cannot stop a dent, collision damage, or a deep gouge from a heavy strike, because those deform or cut through to the panel itself. What it does is remove the most common damage class entirely - the chips and scratches that paint faces every week. Think bodyguard, not armour plating: it takes the everyday hits so your paint doesn't.

Our coverage tiers on this page carry from-prices, and the final number depends on vehicle size, panel complexity, the film and finish you choose, coverage level and the preparation your paint needs. That's why we inspect the vehicle before confirming the recommended scope and a fixed, itemised quote in writing - a phone-call number that ignores your actual panels isn't a quote, it's a guess. The useful anchor: any tier costs a fraction of respraying the panels it protects.

Five things, in roughly this order: vehicle size and shape (panel area is installation time), panel complexity (compound curves, aero, recesses demand more skill-hours than flat metal), the film and finish you choose (matte and premium lines price differently to standard gloss), how much of the car you cover, and the paint correction genuinely required before film goes on. New cars sit at the friendly end because that last item is near zero - one of several reasons to protect early.

Years, not weeks - but the honest number depends on the product, the preparation and how the car lives. A garaged weekend car and a ute parked under trees near bore-water sprinklers age a coating very differently. We'll give you a straight expectation for your car and situation when we quote, not a number picked for a brochure. What we can say flatly: a professionally prepped and cured coating outlasts any wax or spray sealant many times over.

Perth is close to the ideal case for it. The local combination - relentless UV, mineral-heavy bore water, coastal fallout and dark cars that show every swirl - is exactly the chemistry a ceramic coating resists. The gloss is what sells coatings, but the practical win is maintenance: a coated car rinses clean in a fraction of the time and stops collecting the etched water rings that ruin paint here.

No - and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling something. A cured coating resists wash marring and chemical etching, and it takes the micro-abuse of day-to-day cleaning far better than bare clear coat. It will not stop stone chips, trolley strikes or car-park scrapes. For impact protection the honest answer is paint protection film - and plenty of cars leave here running coating over film so each layer does the job it's actually good at.

If the paint has visible defects, yes. A coating locks in whatever sits under it - swirls, etching and oxidation included - and once cured it can only be removed by machine. Correct first, coat second is the order that makes a coating worth its money. If your paint is new or genuinely clean, we'll tell you it only needs a light polish or none at all; the prep is scoped under inspection lighting, not sold from a package list.

Front side windows must let at least 35% of light through, and everything behind the driver can go down to 20% VLT. The windscreen itself can't be tinted - only a visor strip across the top. We fit road-legal shades only and show you the limit for each window before you choose.

If heat is why you're tinting, yes. Dyed film darkens glass; ceramic film targets infrared - the heat you actually feel - and does it even in lighter legal shades. Park outside all day or do long commutes and the difference is obvious. If it's purely looks and privacy, a quality carbon film is honest value.

Quality film cuts the solar energy coming through the glass, and ceramic construction is built specifically to reject infrared heat. How much depends on the film tier and shade - we'll show you the manufacturer's numbers side by side rather than promising one figure for everything.

Most cars are done the same day - often within a few hours. We'll confirm timing when you book.

A boat wrap is a vinyl or printed graphics system applied to suitable areas of a boat, usually above the waterline - refreshing the hull colour, adding custom artwork, replacing tired old decals or applying commercial branding, all without repainting. It's the marine version of what we do to vehicles every day: premium film, marine-grade laminates, and edge finishing that respects how a hull actually gets used. The result reads like a fresh finish and reverses like film.

Often, yes - if the surface is suitable, and that's a genuine 'if' we check rather than assume. Aluminium condition, existing coatings, rivets, oxidation, repairs and previous graphics all affect how film bonds and how edges hold, so the boat gets inspected before we quote. Plate boats with sound surfaces wrap well; heavily oxidised or saltwater-pitted alloy needs honest conversation first. Either way you get the straight verdict before money changes hands.

In many cases, yes - fibreglass with clean, stable gelcoat is a good wrapping surface. The honest exceptions: heavily oxidised, chalky, damaged or contaminated gelcoat may need correction first, or may not be suitable at all, because film bonds to the surface it's given and locks in whatever's underneath. Chalky gelcoat is exactly what our caravan-style restoration process exists for - sand back to sound material first, then wrap. The inspection tells us which path your hull is on.

No - boat wraps are planned for above-waterline areas, and be wary of anyone who says otherwise. Below-waterline surfaces live permanently immersed, with completely different exposure, fouling and adhesion demands; that zone belongs to antifouling and specialist marine coatings, not film. Our scope is always conditional and stated up front: topsides, hull sides, transom and graphics above the line. It's a smaller promise than some will make you - because it's the one that holds.

Yes - film is flexible by design and bonds to the panel, so it moves with the metal. Corrugations shake the vehicle, not the bond. What actually tests film off-road is abrasion and impact, which is exactly what it's built for: stone strikes spread their energy through the film instead of chipping the paint, and light scratches in the film's top layer self-heal with heat.

It stops the paint damage from most of it. Light branch contact marks the film's sacrificial top layer rather than your clear coat, and those fine marks self-heal in the sun. A hard gouge from a heavy branch can still cut film - but then it's a film panel you replace, not a respray you book. That trade is the whole point.

A polish removes a micro-layer and revives what's left - on a lightly tired van that's enough, and we'll say so. But oxidation that's gone chalky comes back within a season because the surface material itself is finished. Restoration replaces the surface: sand back to sound material, then wrap film over it. You're not reviving the old skin, you're retiring it - which is why the result holds instead of fading again by Christmas.

The sticker and its adhesive, completely. The ghost is trickier - it's a difference in how the surrounding surface aged, baked in by years of UV - and no chemical wipes that away. Sanding takes the ghost back with the oxidised layer, and the wrap covers what remains uniformly. On the finished van, the ghosts are gone for the honest reason: the surface they lived on is gone.

Sometimes - but you can't know from the brochure. Ask three things: the actual product name (so you can look it up), who applies it and where, and what the warranty excludes. Many dealer packages are spray sealants applied in a pre-delivery bay, priced like a professional ceramic installation. If the answers are vague, the honest move is to negotiate the package off the invoice and put the same money into protection you chose, from a shop whose whole trade is surfaces. If the answers are solid - genuinely, good for them, and you've lost nothing by asking.

Factory clear coat is a UV shield and a gloss layer, not armour - it's soft enough that a brush wash marks it and thin enough that a stone chip goes straight through. Perth adds its own pressures: relentless UV, bore-water sprinklers that etch rings into paint, and freeway gravel. A new car doesn't need protection to survive; it needs protection to still look new when you sell it, and resale is where the money comes back.

Different jobs, and on a new car the case for each is at its strongest. Film physically stops stone chips - it belongs on the impact zones: bonnet, bumper, guards, mirrors. Ceramic changes how the whole car ages: UV, bore water, bird droppings and wash time. The stack most new-car owners land on is film on the front, coating over everything - but the honest scope depends on the car, the roads it'll see and how long you're keeping it. That's a ten-minute conversation, not a package tier.

Not as a standalone service, no. Vinyl Wrapz is a paint protection and wrap workshop - the washing, decontamination and machine correction we do happens as the preparation stage of ceramic coating, paint protection film and wrap jobs. If you're after a maintenance wash, an interior detail or a regular detailing package, a dedicated detailer is genuinely the better call: it's their trade, their pricing and their schedule. We'd rather tell you that up front than waste your drive to Osborne Park.

No - we don't take wash-and-vac or interior-only work at all. It's not that the work is beneath anyone; it's that a shop set up for film and coatings does it slower and dearer than a proper maintenance detailer, and you'd be paying protection-workshop overheads for a service someone else does better. Find a local detailer you trust for upkeep, and come to us when the conversation is about correcting or protecting the paint itself.

Yes - machine correction is stage one of nearly every job in this building, because coatings and film lock in whatever surface sits underneath them. We scope it under inspection lighting and quote it as part of a protection job: correct, then coat or film, so the finish you paid to fix is sealed against coming back. What we don't sell is correction as a cosmetic one-off with nothing over it - paying for machine work and then leaving the paint bare to collect the same swirls again is money we're not comfortable taking.